Alchemy in Silk- A Sneak-Peek Into Our Design Process

Craft is not a relic of the past, frozen in time. It is a whispered story woven into fabric, a conversation between tradition and reinvention. At Kosala, design is more than an aesthetic pursuit—it is a dialogue between yesterday and today, a celebration of what has been and what is yet to come.

Our Design Journey

Our journey is one of rediscovery, where the past and present entwine through the intricate techniques of Jaala, Khaapa, and Phera. These weaving techniques, effortless in their elegance, demand a designer’s thought, a weaver’s artistry, and a patient bond between them and the loom. In our draped collections, these techniques shine in their purest form. Yet, we also push their boundaries, to constantly reinvent them for contemporary times.

Creation, for us, is a slow alchemy—a process of countless iterations, trials, and quiet revelations. Every collection begins with a spark of inspiration. Sometimes, it is found in landscapes, rituals, and the unspoken poetry of Chhattisgarh. Other times, it emerges from the universe itself—a celestial alignment of colour, texture, and form.

Once a theme emerges, we explore colour dyes. Natural Kosa silk carries a quiet luster, so we embrace its natural hues rather than masking them with chemical bleaching, which harms both the yarn and the planet. Instead, we use dyes that honor its essence, bringing out shades that echo the earth—soft ambers, deep charcoals, luscious reds and greens. Each yarn absorbs the dye and transforms, revealing diverse tones that guide the upcoming collection’s palette.

Once the reeling is done, and the loom is set in our design studio, a textile blanket of exploration takes shape. Designers, weavers, and artisans collaborate to create these textile blankets—swatches that map the interplay of weight, weave, and material. These woven fragments hold endless possibilities. Once off the loom, each blanket undergoes careful washing and calendaring, revealing its final texture, drape, and movement.

The designers then work closely with the master weavers to draft a graph for each unique piece that is then followed by the former to weave a sample. We then go through multiple iterations of the motif and finished product to finalize a sample that’s near perfect in its colours, motif placements and overall design.

From Loom to Life

The journey from thread to textile is one of patience, precision, and an unwavering commitment to excellence. Every saree or dupatta in our collection has gone through multiple rounds of refinement. For apparel, the process is even longer. Once fabrics are ready, they are tested for weight and resilience before they are cut, embroidered, and stitched. The first test fits examine the balance between fabric and movement. Only after this meticulous orchestration does a collection come to life, ready to be part of your special occasions and everyday moments.

Our design journey is one of experimentation and evolution— woven with time, effort, laughter, and a deep reverence for craft. Each collection takes four to five months of labour, whispered debates between weaver and weave, moments of frustration, and flashes of brilliance. Yet, with each passing season, we begin again, driven by the same restless passion to create, preserve, and evolve.

Stay Tuned! Something new is always unfolding behind the looms at Kosala.